This blend of Malvasia Bianca, Trebbiano and Bellone is named for the locality in which the grapes are
grown: Capo le Mole. The nose of this unexpectedly rich charmer reveals bright, fresh aromas of green
papaya, underripe pineapple, Asian pear, apricot skin and a dusty mineral component, which is no doubt a
byproduct of the vineyards’ volcanic tuff soils. Similar characteristics are etched on the palate with
additional complexity contributed by flavors of nectarine, Meyer lemon zest, marzipan and a distant whiff of
cardamom. Total production: 1,250 cases for the world to share.
Nectarine, Meyer lemon zest, Asian pear, apricot skin and cardamom.
Marco Carpineti’s vineyards are located 28 miles southeast of Rome in the Lazio (Latium) region. Although
it ranks sixth among Italy’s 20 wine regions in terms of production volume, Lazio is among the least
known. The area’s capital is Rome, and it is bordered by Tuscany, Abruzzo, Campania, Marche and
Umbria. This 130-acre estate, just outside the ancient town of Cori (founded circa fourth century B.C.) is
nestled on the lower slopes of the Lepini Mountains. The estate has been in the same family for several
generations, but Marco Carpineti inherited the property in 1986 and has been a driving force ever since. In
the early 1990s, he spearheaded a profound transformation of the operation by adopting cutting edge
technology in the winery as well as investing in the finest French oak barrels. But, according to Mr.
Carpineti, “the most significant changes took place in the vineyard with the adoption of organic practices
in 1994.” The estate is now farmed biodynamically and the grapes are harvested by hand.
An excellent all-purpose wine, the Capolemole’s medium body matches best with richer foods. In addition
to being especially well-suited to seafood and poultry, it is also content to sing backup to simply prepared
veal and pork dishes. Its supple fruit notes and high acidity will also counterbalance the saltiness and
modest chili heat found in many Asian-inspired preparations. I suggest my Fennel Spiced Prawns with Citrus
Salad. The richness of the prawns and the flavors in the fennel spice rub work in wonderful harmony with
sweet and tart citrus in the salad.
“Old wood best to burn, old wine to drink, old friends to trust, and old authors to read.” ~Athenaeus
